When did breakfast start to become important?


Release Date:

2020-07-11

When did breakfast start to become important?

“Have you had breakfast yet?” This is perhaps the most common greeting you hear as you step out in the early morning. “Eat like a king for breakfast, like a commoner for lunch, and like a beggar for dinner.” You may have also heard nutritionists make similar remarks about the importance of breakfast. The repeated use of such phrases gradually reinforces the primacy of the day’s first meal. But when exactly did this crucial meal come to be regarded as so vital? And how did the universal value that breakfast is essential take hold? As industrial civilization swept across the globe in a wave of urbanization, permeating every corner of the world, to what extent can the timing and manner of eating breakfast still be left to individual preference? And just how many people and industries are involved in shaping your morning meal? By revisiting breakfast through these questions, we hold in our hands a key that unlocks the door to a journey through time and space—right into the very heart of breakfast itself.


Other Names for Breakfast


The precise origins of breakfast can only be inferred. According to Andrew Dalby, author of The Breakfast Book, humans began eating breakfast after the Neolithic Revolution. This transformation—from using stones as tools to actively crafting them, and from gathering and hunting to the advent of agriculture—occurred some ten thousand years ago and is often referred to as the “First Agricultural Revolution.” Originating in West Asia, East Asia, and Mesoamerica, it spread and evolved over time. The cultivation and animal husbandry techniques introduced by the Neolithic Revolution freed humanity from the daily struggle to secure food by chasing prey as soon as they opened their eyes. More than three centuries later, the “secondary-food revolution” enabled people to preserve meat through drying and to make cheese—thus establishing ample food reserves that made it possible to enjoy breakfast at leisure.

Tracing the etymology of the term “breakfast” reveals that linguistic designations for it across different cultures can broadly be categorized into three types: the first conveys the idea of “breaking the state of an empty stomach” or “ending a fast”; the second straightforwardly states that “breakfast is the meal eaten in the early morning”; and the third, less common approach, uses the name of a particular light snack typically consumed at breakfast to refer to the meal itself.


After a long night of digestion, the interval between dinner and breakfast represents the longest period of fasting in the day. Both French and English breakfast terminology, rooted in Latin, refer to the meal that ends the state of fasting. In ancient Rome, breakfast was called “ientaculum”; the Latin word “ieiunus” means “fasting” or “empty stomach,” so the Roman breakfast consisted simply of a small bite after a night of abstinence. Similarly, the English word “breakfast” derives from “break the fast”: “break” means “to break,” and “fast” refers to fasting or abstinence, together conveying the idea of “breaking the fast.” In French, “déjeuner” today means lunch, but before the nineteenth century it was often used to denote breakfast; here, “jeuner” also means “empty stomach,” and with the negative prefix “dé” (akin to the English prefix “dis”), the whole term signifies “no longer being empty-stomached.” Other breakfast-related terms linked to the notion of “empty stomach” can also be found in Spanish, in “desayuno” (from “sayuno”), and in Romanian, in “mic-dejun” (from “dejun”)—the overnight fast following dinner is thus filled by breakfast.


The etymological naming of the second category of breakfast is exemplified by the Chinese term: a straightforward combination of “early” and “meal,” referring to the meal one takes first thing in the morning. In classical Chinese, breakfast was also known as “morning meal”; for instance, a passage in the pre-Qin poem “Zhu Lin” from the “Guofeng” section of the Book of Songs reads, “Mount my steed and ride forth—morning meal at Zhu.” Even today, in western Guangdong, people still refer to eating breakfast as “eating the morning.” Countries deeply influenced by Han culture—such as Japan, South Korea, and Vietnam—have adopted the same naming convention: in Japanese, breakfast is written as “asashoku”; in Korean, it is called “achim siksaa,” where “achim” means morning and “siksaa” means meal; and in Vietnamese, “bữa sáng” derives from “bữa,” meaning to eat, and “sáng,” meaning breakfast. Beyond Southeast Asia, several European countries also follow this naming rule—for example, in German, “Frühstück” combines “stück,” meaning something to eat, with “Früh,” meaning early in the morning; and in Old Swedish, breakfast was “morgonmat,” with “morgon” meaning morning and “mat” meaning food.


The third category of breakfast names is not mainstream; it simply uses the name of a specific breakfast dish to refer to the entire meal. If you were to ask an ancient Egyptian what they ate for breakfast, they might dispatch a court official bearing the title “Supervisor of the King’s Breakfast” to answer. The very first thing the Egyptian pharaoh would consume upon rising in the morning was called “ja.w-r’”—a piece of bread dipped in wine. And if you asked an ancient Greek what they ate for breakfast, they might reply: Would you prefer an “ariston” or an “akratisma”? The “akratisma” closely resembles the ancient Egyptian “ja.w-r’,” referring to those small, bite-sized snacks one could quickly finish right after waking—such as a little piece of bread dipped in wine—which not only broke the fast but also served to cleanse the mouth and freshen breath. By contrast, the “ariston” was a full meal eaten between ten and eleven in the morning, typically consisting of bread along with cheese and meat; sometimes, however, the “ariston” might be served even later, in which case it was regarded as lunch instead. To this day, similar naming conventions can still be found in breakfast traditions across various countries. For example, the Turkish breakfast “kahvalti” means “coffee at six o’clock”; the Brazilian Portuguese term “cafe da manhã” translates as “morning coffee”; and the Ethiopian breakfast is called “qurs,” which literally means “a small piece of bread.”


A Wide Variety of Breakfast Times


The three distinct ways breakfast is named reveal varying attitudes toward breakfast across different regions, including how much importance is attached to it and when exactly it is considered the proper time to eat. In Southeast Asian countries where breakfast is called “morning meal,” the meal is, as the name suggests, consumed in the early morning; given that “meal” is regarded as distinct from “snack” (dim sum), whether the prevailing pattern is “two meals a day” or “three meals a day,” breakfast is invariably seen as an essential and indispensable part of the daily routine.


In ancient China, the Shang people, who ate only twice a day, divided the 24-hour cycle into eight periods: dan (or “ming” in the morning), dashi, daci, zhongri, zhe, xiaoshi, xiaocai, and xi. Among these, “dashi” was the time for breakfast, roughly between 7:00 and 9:00 a.m.; “xiaoshi” referred to dinner, typically between 3:00 and 5:00 p.m. The purpose of “dashi” was to replenish the energy expended during the morning’s strenuous physical labor, with caloric intake sufficient to sustain a busy midday; after dinner, as the sun set and it was soon time to rest, eating less facilitated digestion, hence the name “xiaoshi”—thus, the two daily meals consisted solely of breakfast and dinner, with breakfast regarded as more important than dinner. During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, the original “eight periods” further evolved into the “twelve hours,” yet breakfast continued to hold a prominent position, known as “shishi,” occurring around the same time as today—between 7:00 and 9:00 a.m.


Unlike the common people, the Zhou king partook of three meals a day. According to the “Shanfu” chapter of the Rites of Zhou, the Zhou king’s “morning meal” had to include the ritual slaughter of an animal, with fresh meat prepared as delicacies; for the remaining midday and evening meals, no further animals were slaughtered. During the Han and Tang dynasties, the custom of three daily meals gradually spread among the populace, with breakfast known as “morning meal,” typically taken at first light. From this period onward, both the two-meal and three-meal systems coexisted, each region adhering to its own pattern based on local geography and the length of daylight. Generally speaking, the northern regions tended to follow a two-meal regimen, while the south more often adopted three meals a day. After the Qing court’s entry into the Central Plains, the Manchu elite continued to observe the northern tradition of two daily meals. Within the Qing imperial household, formal meals were referred to as “shàn”; the “Shandi Dang” records that the morning meal was usually served at the second ke (6:30 a.m.), and the evening meal at the second wu (12:30 p.m.), with “snacks” served on demand in between. The “morning meal” was a particularly solemn affair, comprising ten distinct components: hot pot dishes, warm main courses, cooked dishes, steamed dishes, pickled vegetables, staple foods, congee and soups, desserts, special delicacies, and auspicious dishes. According to the Shandi Dang for the first day of the first lunar month in 1895 under the Guangxu Emperor, that day’s morning meal included no fewer than thirty-five individual dishes.

In breakfast systems named after small snacks, breakfast often evolved from pastries and other light treats, serving the dual purposes of cleansing the palate and gently rousing one from sleep—all while being quick and efficient. For people in the Mediterranean and continental European regions, the typical daily eating pattern consists of one or two main meals, usually lunch and dinner, with the most important meal of the day—or at least the principal meal—never occurring before noon. As the work Ancient Medicine puts it: “For some healthy individuals, eating just once a day is perfectly suitable, and this has become their established custom.” The author of Ancient Medicine is widely believed to be Hippocrates; in the author’s view, the ideal daily intake comprises no more than two meals: lunch, called “ariston,” and dinner, called “deipnon.” Dinner is the most substantial meal, while lunch is relatively unimportant—indeed, skipping it altogether may even be preferable to eating it—and breakfast, or the morning snack known as “akratisma,” has completely disappeared from the text.


In another type of breakfast system, dubbed “breaking the fast by ending the fasting state,” breakfast itself is often given little importance. Roman citizens, whose material lives were relatively affluent, ate three meals a day, with each meal growing in significance as the day progressed: in hot climates, people typically began a leisurely dinner lasting several hours after sunset; this evening meal, known as the “cena,” was considered the most important meal of the day, marking the end of work. Because dinner was late and substantial, one would naturally not feel very hungry in the morning, so breakfast could be quickly satisfied with light snacks or even postponed until noon for a more formal meal. Thus, breakfast was often optional—and even when eaten, it seldom qualified as a proper meal. This may explain why, compared with the minimalist Mediterranean breakfast, breakfasts in the colder regions of continental Europe (including Germany and Scandinavia) offer a much richer array of options, such as smoked meats, cheeses, eggs, and an abundance of fruits and vegetables. In cold climates, people tend to go to bed early; after a small, light dinner that has been digested overnight, they need to replenish their nutrients early in the morning. Coincidentally, in countries like Germany and Sweden, where breakfast tends to be more substantial, the term used to describe breakfast also falls under the “morning meal” category.


Ending the fast too late often slips straight into lunch, and the precise moment when breakfast begins tends to blur. At the very opening of his 1846 novel “The Human Comedy,” Balzac employs this very ambiguity to create a misunderstanding between a provincial youth and Parisians: a scheduled “déjeuner” sees the former arriving well ahead of time, only to wait until noon before the meal finally commences. The reason lies in the fact that, at the time, Parisians had begun to popularize the practice of waking up in the morning with coffee, tea, and a few small pastries—giving rise to the newly coined term “petit déjeuner” (little breakfast). As a result, the original meaning of “déjeuner” as breakfast gradually came to encompass lunch as well; yet provincials continued to use the word exclusively for breakfast. In Quebec French, which has retained many archaic semantic and grammatical features, “déjeuner” is still used today to mean “breakfast.” A similar shift in meaning can be observed in English, where the formal emergence of breakfast led to a reassignment of “dinner’s” original sense: today, “dinner” refers to the evening meal, whereas formerly it denoted the midday meal—and tracing its etymology reveals that it shares the same root as “breakfast.” From breakfast to midday meal to dinner, this semantic shift records the evolving status of breakfast over time.

The alarm clock rings to signal the unified breakfast time.


When did the diverse and varied breakfast routine first become part of the standard three-meals-a-day schedule? And when did the once-peripheral breakfast—sometimes deemed optional—come to be recognized as an important meal closely linked to health?


The profound transformation of lifestyles is vividly reflected in changes to dietary habits, with breakfast serving as a particularly telling example. From the ninth century through the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, castles dotted the European landscape at regular intervals, forming a distinctive feature of the era. The wealth of castle owners—feudal lords—derived from land and its produce; the peasants and serfs who worked the land delivered their harvests to the lords as payment in kind, rather than in cash. Against the backdrop of underdeveloped agricultural output, rudimentary forms of commodity exchange, and a feudal system centered on fiefdoms, breakfast times varied according to the cycle of daylight, religious observances (such as prayer), personal preference, or longstanding local culinary traditions.


However, beginning in the 14th and 15th centuries, rural castles began to decline. One reason was the military use of gunpowder, which greatly diminished their defensive effectiveness; even more significant, though, was the emergence of towns and cities, as peasants left the land to flock to urban centers for commodity exchange and daily life. This new economic order spurred the development of social institutions such as guilds and trade associations. The day-to-day operations of these trades were governed by commercial time, coinciding with the invention of mechanical tower clocks in the 14th century. As a result, human routines—once attuned to the natural rhythm of sunrise and sunset—gradually came to be standardized under a common mechanical temporal framework with the spread of clock technology. In the centuries that followed, the rise of schools, offices, commercial hubs, and even factories all adhered to uniform daily schedules for opening and closing, further reinforcing this growing conformity. If orderly, synchronized working and trading hours are essential for facilitating business connections and boosting productivity, then for an individual to integrate into society one must keep pace with the rhythms of the social production clock—in other words, modern socialization begins with regular three-meals-a-day.


If school starts at eight o’clock, children must finish breakfast before 7:30; similarly, if a factory begins work at nine in the morning, having breakfast after ten would clearly be ill-timed. In this way, the pattern of three meals a day gradually took shape and, over the long course of the Industrial Revolution and urbanization since the nineteenth century, was progressively established around the world. People who leave home on an empty stomach without having eaten breakfast may even be questioned about their lifestyle—or, more broadly, their work ethic. After all, a competent member of the workforce has a duty to “refuel” with breakfast before beginning the day’s tasks.


Eating breakfast is considered a morning obligation for any self-respecting member of the workforce; given the limited time available in the morning, it is often a hastily consumed meal at home—creating a huge business opportunity for food manufacturers and sparking the marketing campaign that “breakfast is essential for health.” In 1914, when domestic citrus production in the United States surged to oversupply and sales plummeted, the government began promoting the health benefits of drinking a glass of orange juice each morning. Then, during the 1918 influenza pandemic, rumors spread that the vitamin C in orange juice could ward off the virus, further cementing orange juice’s place as an integral part of the breakfast routine. By 1940, U.S. food companies, in collaboration with nutritionists, were actively emphasizing the importance of protein and fat in breakfast to boost bacon sales, repeatedly stressing that people should move away from the traditionally light breakfasts of the past and make sure to eat a proper, nutritious breakfast—one that includes dietary fat. As a result, consumers were encouraged to buy processed bacon from these very same food companies.


Perhaps the most commercialized promotion of the importance of breakfast is that of ready-to-eat breakfast cereals. In the late 19th century, health advocates within American churches began opening sanitariums, one of which was the Seventh-day Adventist Church. A church member, James Caleb Jackson, invented breakfast cereal, while another member, John Harvey Kellogg, went on to found the Kellogg’s brand. By the 1940s and 1950s, U.S. food companies, in an effort to boost cereal sales, repeatedly broadcast on the radio: “Nutritionists agree that breakfast is the most important meal of the day.” At the same time, they distributed promotional leaflets in supermarkets, preaching that if you want to be healthy, you must eat breakfast—and that the healthiest breakfast of all is their own instant cereal (a claim that simply isn’t true). Following World War II, women’s labor-force participation surged, and working mothers needed to free up kitchen time during their morning commutes, which further fueled the consumption of breakfast cereals. Over the course of the American cereal craze, breakfast cereal has become a cherished memory for a generation of Americans; along with the taste itself, it has also cemented the now-familiar message—repeated ad nauseam by marketers—that “breakfast is the most important meal of the day.”


“Have you had breakfast yet?” This may be the first greeting you hear when you wake up in the morning. Because time is so limited in the morning, breakfast ingredients must be readily available, and dishes need to be quick to prepare and eat—so hastily consumed breakfasts often come in two forms. One reflects the local culinary character of a city: Wuhan’s steaming hot dry noodles for early-morning snacks, tiny wonton soup stalls tucked away in Nanjing’s alleyways, Beijing’s traditional fermented bean juice and fried dough sticks, or Shanghai’s sticky rice balls held delicately in the hand. The other is the kind you grab on the fly, half-asleep, by rummaging through the fridge—industrial boxed milk and breakfast cereals, frozen steamed buns, or pre-packaged bread. Whether you rise with the alarm to enjoy a proper breakfast or settle for a quick bite, modern society allows for all levels of indulgence, but skipping breakfast is simply out of the question. “Have you had breakfast yet?” The journey of breakfast through time and space continues; history unfolds anew with each sunrise, in every fresh meal we begin.